There’s nothing better than something in a room that focuses the eyes of your friends, and has the potential to undo that focus as the evening rolls on. We’re talking about a wet bar. For one thing, a wet bar keeps strays out of your kitchen. But the very term wet bar means there’s some plumbing involved. A wet bar has a sink and a water faucet. With the addition of a small water tub, putting in a wet bar is a little more complicated than just your basic serving bar.
Decorating your wet bar boils down to what your taste dictates. Stone, simple paneling, brick; as they say, pick your poison.
Since you need running water, let’s first talk about installing a sink. We’re assuming that a plumber has all ready set-up a water and drain connection.
• Figure-out where you want to put the sink. Get out your tape measure and find the size of the outer rim of the tub. Transfer the measurements to the counter-top. An important thing to remember is that you need to subtract ¾-of an inch on all sides. You don’t want the tub to fall through the hole, right?
• Now that you’ve measured the opening, it’s time to cut out the hole. Get your drill and make an opening big enough to accommodate your jigsaw blade. Take out your jigsaw, following the lines you drew, and proceed to cut. Check to see if the sink fits. Take it out, we’re about to do some plumbing
• Install the drain flange by coating the underside of the flange with plumber’s putty. Press it firmly into position. Turn the sink over. It’s time to put the drain gaskets in. The manufacturer should have given you instructions of the correct way to do this. The drain stem will go over the gasket, followed by the locking ring. Squeeze it into place until a little of the extra plumber’s putty runs out. Wipe the excess away
• With the faucet, follow the installation directions, also using plumber’s putty to make for a water-tight seal
• Around the edge of the hole you cut, spread a line of water-proof caulk. Put the sink in its place, pressing down on the tub to seal it to the counter-top
• Once everything dries, connect the water lines and check that all is running smoothly
Talking the dimensions of a completed bar, we’re looking for a top that’s from 18-to-24-inches deep and between 42-to-50-inches high. Do you plan to use stools? Then you want a front overhang of about a foot.
The bar needs to be anchored. When installing it on a concrete floor, erect a 15-inch return wall at a 90-degree angle to the wall where the long part of the bar will sit. Give it a ¾-inch thick plywood face. Anchor bolts should be used to affix the concrete floor to the bottom wall plate. This little wall should keep the bar from moving.
Wood floor? Start by bolting a 4-by-4 post to the end of the wall. Try to co-ordinate this to line-up alongside a joist.
Decorating your wet bar boils down to what your taste dictates. Stone, simple paneling, brick; as they say, pick your poison. Behind the scenes, you could use regular drywall for the inside of the bar wall.
As for the top, marble, granite, plastic laminate or tiles are a few of the choices you have. Whatever you decide, remember that the bar top has to be fastened securely. You don’t want the thing to move when people put their weight on it. Plywood or metal can be used.
Once that’s been bolted to the bar walls, use a strong, appropriate glue to marry the stabilizer to the bar top.
Let everything settle for a few hours. Invite a few friends over. Bottoms up!